Every afternoon at four, the kitchen smells of oranges and good oil. That is the cake going into the oven, and it has done so every day since we opened.
We did not plan for it to be the dessert people remember. It started as something to have with coffee at the counter, back when we had eight stools and two induction rings. Somebody asked for a second slice, then for the recipe, and it has been on every sheet since.
The secret, if there is one, is that it is not a delicate cake. It wants a lot of olive oil, a lot of orange, and to be left alone overnight. It is better on the second day than the first.
The oil matters
Use an oil you would happily put on bread: fruity and a little peppery. Cheap oil tastes cheap here, because there is nothing to hide behind. We use a Sicilian one that Theo also pours on the burrata.
We serve it with crème fraîche and whatever fruit is good: quince in autumn, rhubarb in spring, nothing at all in winter. At home, a spoon of yoghurt is just as good.
Olive oil cake · one 9-inch cake, 10 slices
You need: 3 eggs, 200 g sugar, 180 ml olive oil, 150 ml whole milk, the zest of 2 oranges, 220 g flour, 2 tsp baking powder and a pinch of salt.
1. Heat the oven to 350°F and line a 9-inch tin. 2. Whisk the eggs and sugar until pale and thick, about five minutes. 3. Pour in the oil slowly while whisking, then the milk and the zest. 4. Fold in the flour, baking powder and salt until just smooth. 5. Bake for 45 minutes, until a skewer comes out clean. 6. Cool in the tin, wrap, and wait until tomorrow.
